Hublot: Now at Timeless

Timeless is excited to announce that we are now authorized dealers for Hublot! As you almost certainly already know, Hublot is one of the boldest high-end Swiss watch brands out there, experimenting with exotic combinations of materials in their iconic porthole case design. If you’re already familiar with the brand, go ahead and click here to be taken directly to the watches, or just keep reading to get a brief introduction of the brand and its models. 

We must first take a brief look at where Hublot began to understand their modern lineup. You may at first assume that, like many prominent watch brands, Hublot is named after its founder, probably something like Pierre Hublot, but you’d be wrong. Oddly, despite its founder’s unusually epic name of Carlo Crocco, an eponymous name wasn’t chosen for the brand, but instead he took the rather interesting path of naming it after the case design. Hublot is simply French for “porthole,” the basic inspiration for the case shape. This somewhat reflects the changing attitudes towards watch design going on throughout the 1970s (although Hublot doesn’t officially kick off until 1980), namely that the emphasis moved from dial and movement design into case design. But while Hublot has a very recognizable case shape, it was actually an unusual combination of materials that put them on the map.

Today the thought of a rubber strap on a high-end watch, particularly one in precious metal, seems rather trivial; at worst, it’s slightly eccentric. But that wasn’t the way things were done when Hublot launched. Crocco wanted to created a magnificent high-end watch that was somehow also both casual and comfortable to wear, and his solution was to use rubber straps instead of the far more common leather or metal. Indeed, he apparently spent a small fortune developing Hublot’s own proprietary rubber strap alone. It was a risky move, but it paid off in a big way, and it formed the core of what Hublot would be in the future, namely a brand that specialized in combining unusual materials to create wild watch designs. These combinations didn’t stop at the strap and case, however; the screws in the bezel and lugs were made from titanium, so that made for three materials that weren’t normally used together.

But that initial success was nothing compared to what would come in 2005 with the release of the now-iconic Big Bang. The contribution of industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, the Big Bang took everything unique about Hublot to another level. The watches were larger, bolder, and more adventurous. They combined ever more exotic materials, including Kevlar, carbon, ceramic, tungsten, titanium, and, of course rubber (a non-exhaustive list, by the way). The name “Big Bang” is thought to originate in the idea of placing every material (or, at least, what would become material as we know it) in the universe into a single point; something that Biver, and Hublot, sought to do in this line of watches. Today almost everyone with even the slightest interest in watches or fashion knows the name Hublot, and that’s largely thanks to the Big Bang. Since its launch, the Big Bang has become the brand’s best-selling watch and has grown into an enormous collection with an incredible variety of models.

You can still get models faithful to the pre-Big Bang Hublots, of course, through the also-extremely popular Classic Fusion line. The Classic Fusion line is, unsurprisingly, far more subtle than Big Bang, but because virtually everything is more subtle than the Big Bang, you should probably not confuse these for understated dress watches. No, all Hublots, bottom to top, are bold, it’s just a matter of degree, but the Classic Fusion is at least subtle enough for any ordinary day-to-day activity you’ll encounter. As a result, those looking for an everyday watch will probably find themselves best suited to Classic Fusion, while those who want the maximum strength Hublot experience, one that will likely turn heads wherever it is seen, should opt for Big Bang.

The next collection is the unusually titled Spirit of Big Bang, which is entirely dedicated to barrel-shaped cases. Nonetheless, all of the Big Bang’s most iconic design attributes are to be found here, from the exotic combinations of materials to the frequent use of skeletonized dials, and of course to broader Hublot design trends like the H-screws throughout the bezel. I suppose it should go without saying, but for fans of both the Big Bang (or Hublot generally) and tonneau cases, this is the place to go. Think of it as everything you liked about Big Bang but in a new shape.

The last collection is also the smallest, the MP line. Short for masterpiece, the MP represents designs that are both aesthetically and horologically daring, even by Hublot’s standards. While MP is known for its haute horology focus, it should also be pointed out that you can find designs almost this wild in most of Hublot’s collections, including Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang, so if you’re looking for something truly exotic, don’t just stop at MP, make sure to look through the Big Bang collection as well.

Hublot is an interesting brand to work with because, unlike so many others, it knows exactly what it wants to be. Hublot wastes little time attempting to fill every possible niche from dress watches to fliegers; it wants to create bold, and in some instances crazy, watches, which it does quite regularly. You have to respect that kind of singleminded devotion to their vision.

You can see every Hublot here, but in my opinion the best way to get a feel for these particular watches is in person, so if these designs appeal to you and you get a chance to try them on, take it.

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